THE absolute most requested technique my clients ask for assistance with is enhancing their brows. Brows are one of those things that instantly enhance your look because they help to frame your face and add symmetry. Whether your brows are out of control, too thin or too sparse, learning how to properly style and enhance your brows is a game changer! So, here are a few tips for snatching those brows into place:
So before we get into actually applying makeup to enhance the brows we first need to be sure that brows start and end where they’re supposed to, the arch is natural AND make sure we’re not recreating the brow as opposed to simply enhancing it. Finding the perfect starting point for your brows is important because if your brow begins too far in, it could throw off the balance of your face and look real uni-brow-ish.
So first thing’s FIRST, grab your brow pencil, a pen or even a small, thin makeup brush and line it up with the inside corner of your eye. The place where the brush or pencil overlaps your brow is where it should begin. Mark that spot by making a mark there with an eyeliner pencil. However if your eyes are naturally closer together, you may want to consider spacing your brows a little further apart. For wide set eyes, bring your brows closer together. If you’re not sure, come see me a licensed professional who’s been filling in her OWN brows since 11 years old. I’m a brow master at this point 😆
2. Find your NATURAL arch! This is where brows can get tricky. A lot of us like to re-create arches and/or over arch the brows and end up with a very interesting, unnatural looking brow. So, using your same measuring tool- looking straight on into a mirror line up the tool with the outer edge of your nostril and the outer edge of your iris. The place where the instrument crosses your brow is where your arch should peak. If you feel, your arch should peak right around the same area that your brow bone protrudes. *** If you have a more round face, you’ll want to aim for a more angular brow. Alternatively, if your face is square or oblong a more rounded arch will suit you best***
3. Determining where you brow should end is just as important and where it begins. You want your brows to frame your face gracefully and not overpower your other features. Using the same measuring tool, line it up from the edge of your nostril to the outer corner of your eye.
4. Thick or thin? The thickness of your brow can also make or break your look. A general rule of thumb is that your brows should be about the same thickness as your upper lip.
5. Now that we’ve got the measurements out the way and you know the proper placement of your brow makeup we can start by simply brushing the brow hairs upward using a spoolie or a brow brush. This helps to make it easier to see where your outline will go.
6. Choose a color to fill in your brows. For the most natural looking brows, choose a color 1-2 shades lighter than your actual brow color. I empower ALL my clients to promise me to NEVER EVER EVER choose black. NO BLACK BROWS!! The most flattering and universal shades are usually a chocolate or espresso brown.
7. First, trace the outside of your brows beginning with the bottom of of your brow with your brow pencil.
8. Next trace the top until the top & bottom meet at the tail end. You should begin to see the outline of your desired shape.
9. Now simply fill in between the lines using light hair-like strokes or flicks of the pencil. DONT color it in like you would a coloring book, but use very light application. You can always add more color if needed but less is more.
10. Once you’ve filled in all the sparse areas with your pencil, you can further sculpt your brows by outlining the bottom with concealer to conceal any hairs that are out of place, clean up any crooked lines and further define your shape. Once you’ve applied the concealer be sure to blend it down onto your eyelids so the co dealer isn’t visible.